DIY 7-Foot Pool Table Build - Relaxing Garage Woodworking

Welcome back to the Sawdust Journey shop!

If you are reading this, you are probably like me: you love billiards, you have a garage (or a very understanding spouse who will let you take over the living room), and you refuse to pay $3,000 for a piece of furniture you know you can build yourself.

Today, we are tackling my most ambitious project to date: A DIY Modern 7-Foot Pool Table.

This isn't a rickety folding table. This is a solid, regulation-spec (mostly), high-performance billiard table that looks like it belongs in a high-end loft. We're going to use accessible materials like MDF and hardwood to keep the cost down without sacrificing playability.

In this massive guide, I'm going to walk you through every single step—from leveling the frame to stretching the felt like a pro. Grab your coffee (or a beer), and let's make some sawdust.

The Challenge: Why Build Instead of Buy?

Building a pool table is a rite of passage for many woodworkers. It combines cabinetry, precision joinery, and upholstery into one massive object. But why build one?

Cost: A good slate table costs thousands. Moving a used one costs hundreds (and a broken back). This build cost me roughly $600-$800 in materials.
Customization: You want purple felt? You got it. You want walnut rails? Done. You are the master of your domain.
The Flex: Nothing beats the feeling of sinking an 8-ball on a table you built with your own hands.

The Fear Factor: The biggest fear is "Will it be flat?" If a pool table isn't flat, it's garbage. We tackle this using a torsion box design and high-density MDF, which creates an incredibly stable playing surface.

Detailed Material & Tool List

To pull this off, you don't need a professional shop, but you do need the right stuff.

Wood & Lumber

3 Sheets of 3/4" MDF: This is for the playing surface. We laminate two sheets together for a 1.5" thick heavy slab. MDF is actually preferred over plywood because it has no internal voids and is dead flat.
3 Sheets of 3/4" Plywood: For the structural frame (the torsion box).
Hardwood (Maple or Walnut): 20 board feet for the rails and arguably the legs if you want that premium look.
Poplar/Pine: For internal blocking and leg structures if you are painting them.

Billiard Components (Where to Buy)

K-55 Rubber Cushions: Do not buy cheap rubber. Get "K-55" profile. This determines the "bounce."
Pool Table Felt: Simonis is the gold standard (fast), but Championship felt is great for budget builds. I used a worsted wool blend for speed.
Pockets: I bought plastic drop-in pockets for simplicity, but you can sew leather ones if you are fancy.
Rail Bolts & Nuts: Specialized hardware to bolt the rails to the table from underneath.

Tools Required

Table Saw: For ripping accurate strips.
Router & Bits: A flush-trim bit and a round-over bit are essential.
Brad Nailer: For quick assembly.
Clamps: You need at least 10. You can never have enough.
Contact Cement: For gluing the rubber to the wood rails.
Staple Gun: An electric one is best. Your hand will fall off if you use a manual one.

The Build Process: Step-by-Step Deep Dive

Phase 1: The Torsion Box Frame

The secret to a flat table is the frame. We aren't just putting legs on a slab. We are building a "Torsion Box."

The Grid: I ripped 4-inch strips of plywood and created a grid structure (like a waffle). The squares were about 12" x 12".
Assembly: I used wood glue and brad nails to assemble this grid. It must be perfectly square.
The Skins: I glued a full sheet of plywood to the bottom and top of this grid. This creates a beam that is incredibly resistant to sagging. You could park a truck on this frame and it won't bow.

Phase 2: The Legs (The Aesthetics)

I wanted a modern, chunky look.

Lamination: I glued together three layers of 2x6 lumber to create thick blocks.
Tapering: I used a tapering jig on my table saw to cut a gentle angle on two sides of the legs. This makes the table look lighter and more elegant, rather than just a heavy block.
Leveling Feet: This is CRITICAL. I installed heavy-duty adjustable feet on the bottom of each leg. Your garage floor is not level. These feet allow you to dial in the table perfectly.

Phase 3: The Playing Surface (No Slate?)

Slate is the standard, but it weighs 600lbs. I used MDF.

The Stack: I glued two sheets of 3/4" MDF together to make a massive 1.5-inch slab.
Sealing: MDF hates water. If someone spills a beer, it swells. I coated the entire slab (top, bottom, edges) with shellac to waterproof it.
Mounting: This slab is screwed down to the torsion box frame.

Phase 4: The Rails (The Hardest Part)

This is where precision matters.

The Geometry: The nose of the rubber cushion must be exactly 1 7/16" (approximately) above the playing surface for standard balls. If it's too high, the ball hits the rubber and jumps. Too low, and it deadens.
Cutting the Profile: I used the table saw to cut the bevel on the sub-rail that holds the rubber.
Gluing Rubber: I applied contact cement to the wood and the rubber. Wait 10 minutes until it's tacky, then press them together. Warning: You only get one shot. It grabs instantly!

Phase 5: Felting (The Workout)

Upholstering the table requires patience.

The Bed: Lay the felt over the table. Staple one end. Go to the other side, PULL as hard as you can, and staple. You want it drum-tight.
The Pockets: Cutting the felt at the pockets is terrifying. You make relief cuts (little slits) so the fabric can fold around the curve. Take your time. One wrong cut and you ruin a $100 cloth.
The Rails: Each rail is covered separately. This is easier than the bed but requires neat folding at the ends.

Pro Tips / "Don't Do What I Did"

Mistake #1: The Doorway: I built the frame in my shop, then realized it wouldn't fit through the door into the house. I had to take the door off the hinges. Measure your path of travel!
Mistake #2: Cheap Glue: Do not use spray adhesive for the felt. Use a dedicated spray or just staples. Spray glue gets lumpy and ruins the roll of the ball.
Tip: Use a fresh blade in your utility knife when trimming the felt. Felt is tough and dulls blades instantly. A ragged cut looks terrible.

Maintenance & Care

Brushing: Always brush the table from the "head" (where you break) to the "foot." This keeps the nap of the cloth laying down.
Cover It: Sunlight destroys felt (UV rays fade the color). Keep it covered when not in use.
No Drinks: Seriously. Make a rule. No drinks on the rails. Wood moves when it gets wet, and MDF swells.

FAQ

Q: Does the MDF play as well as slate? A: Surprisingly, yes. For 99% of casual players, you won't notice a difference. The roll is smooth and true. However, it is louder. The ball makes a "rumble" sound on MDF that it doesn't make on slate.

Q: Can I take it apart? A: Yes. The rails unbolt from the bottom. The legs can be removed. The main slab/frame is one heavy unit, though.

Q: How long did it take? A: About 4 weekends. 2 weekends for construction, 1 for finishing/painting, and 1 for assembly/felting.

Conclusion

Building this pool table was a journey. There were moments of frustration (especially the rail geometry), but the end result is the centerpiece of my home. It brings friends together, gets the kids off their iPads, and is a constant reminder that with a few tools and some patience, you can build anything.

[!NOTE] Detailed Plans Available! Don't guess on the dimensions. I have prepared a full PDF plan set with cut lists, diagrams for the rail geometry, and a shopping list. Download the PDF Plans Here